Cultured artists find their muse at the fromagerie: Who drew my cheese?

4 Feb

Photo by Dean Hurst

Cheese: We love to smell it, eat it and dream about it. In addition to enhancing our culinary experiences, cheese provides a muse for the world of art. From paintings to sculptures and photographs of rinds, cheese is the model turning heads in galleries across the country. Learning to appreciate where our food comes from requires an understanding of its living beauty, and many artists draw inspiration from what they love to eat and the animals that provide sustenance.

Local artist Ginger Shaw’s whimsical creations are the stuff of dreams. This talented interior designer from Naples (she now lives in Tampa) developed an affection for food when she started working in the restaurant industry to help pay for her degree. The subjects of her paintings range from abstract tributes to animals we consume everyday to animated vegetables one might find on the pages of Alice in Wonderland.

Photo by Dean Hurst

Photo by Dean Hurst

Shaw’s most recent painting, “Wine and Cheese Dreams,” represents her passion for the titular food and drink. This stunning work embraces the euphoria that both wine and cheese inspire (especially together). Shaw playfully incorporated recycled materials and cheese labels into her painting, the art creating feelings of freedom, warmth, sleepiness, exhilaration, excitement and pure bliss. Her painting transfers to canvas the feeling of contentment one has after pairing the perfect bottle of wine with a chunk of expertly made cheese. This work currently resides on the wall of the main dining room inside SideBern’s restaurant in Tampa and is available for purchase.

Photo by Dean Hurst

When asked about her inspiration for the piece, Shaw said, “Cheese takes on the characteristics of the land in which the animal that produced the milk grazed, just like wine. Why not produce artwork showcasing and celebrating cheese? It’s an essential piece of our whole entire world!”

Artist Ginger Shaw, photo by Dean Hurst

Chocolate and cheese, please: chocolate and cheese make a tasty pairing!

1 Feb

Fiscalini Cheddar and Taza Chocolate

Have you ever sunk your teeth into a dense custard of cocoa and bittersweet chocolate whipped into cream cheese with sugar, eggs and sour cream? Doesn’t ring a bell? Maybe because the entire recipe was baked into crushed graham cracker crumbs and topped with chocolate sauce before you coated your taste buds with its decadence. It’s pretty clear: cheesecake proves cheese and chocolate really do go well together. Now up the ante and go artisanal by daring to accompany your cheese with chocolate this year.

To start things off right, crumble up a bit of Fiscalini Bandaged cheddar from California and let it rest next to a bar of Vosges Creole chocolate! The almond and sharp, dried-grass flavors of this perfect American cheddar harmonize in jazzy perfection with the New Orleans-style chicory coffee nuances of the bittersweet chocolate. Little bits of cocoas nibs blended into the expertly crafted bar of goodness will (as is stamped right on the chocolate) make you “close your eyes.”

If you know Vosges Haut Chocolat, then you know they concoct pairings that will blow your mind. One of their unique truffles encases Italian Taleggio cheese with a dark chocolate shell, walnuts and Tahitian vanilla beans. They lovingly call this culinary treat the “Rooster.” If you are putting together a chocolate gift for someone special soon, make sure you include this truffle. The “Rooster” is sure to wake up the senses, and who doesn’t want a little Taleggio from their loved one?

The next best pairing of cheese and chocolate has an elegant twist. Coupole from Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery works amazingly well with sweet chocolate. This cheese is a charmer on its own, with a punch of goatiness and a smooth mouth feel. Lake Champlain Chocolates makes a raspberry truffle dark chocolate bar with a ganache center that enhances the allure of Coupole. The comforting cocoa butter, vanilla and heavy cream (which Lake Champlain expertly includes during the chocolate-making process) ties the combination into a perfect bow. The natural raspberry flavor of the soft center matches the intensity and texture of Coupole’s charm.

To round out the chocolate fun, add a sheep’s milk cheese to your pairings. With a satisfyingly oily, meaty and smoky flavor, Idiazabal fits the bill. This rustic Spanish cheese was once hung in shepherds’ chimneys to drain. The absorbed smoke imparted a real meaty character — like gamy lamb chops. I’ll take a mole sauce with that! This cheese will really shake up your next mixer. Throw down a chunk of dark spicy Aztec organic chocolate also from Lake Champlain next to Idiazabal and watch things get really caliente. The slow burn from the cayenne pepper works well with the earthiness of the sheep’s milk. The vanilla and cinnamon in this chocolate recipe cools the palate while the crunch from the pumpkin seeds creates a textural twist.

While you have the Idiazabal out, pair it with Taza’s ginger Mexicano stone-ground chocolate, too. The grainy texture of this 70 percent dark chocolate and the lingering memory of ginger on your tongue make an exciting and unique combination sure to be the talk of the cheese board. Taza makes an impressive lineup of chocolate flavors based on the traditional Oaxacan method of stone-grinding beans. Orange, salt and pepper, guajillo chili, and salted almond are just a few examples of the flavors available from this simple artisan chocolate producer. Still scared to pair cheese with chocolate? Start easy and mix one of these chocolate discs into a hot pot of milk for an authentic Mexican hot chocolate.

Just “close your eyes” and take the plunge.

Bellisimo Tre: three Italian cheeses to fall in love with

26 Nov

Pretty Pecorinos

When one talks of Italian cheese, several staples come to mind: mascarpone, asiago, parmigiano-reggiano, taleggio and Gorgonzola. In reality, the list of cheeses made in that beautiful country proves as extensive as its wines, and only the cheeses of France rival the complexity and history of Italy’s. Herds found exclusively in the Italian Alps provide milk for some cheeses; and when tourists ask for Pecorino while visiting Italy, they’re likely to see puzzled expressions on the locals’ faces, as each region has its own version of Pecorino with a unique twist added by the cheese-maker. As such, there are too many selections of Pecorinos for us to ever see their full range in the United States. The same is true for three of my favorite Italian cheeses, which sometimes get lost in the mass of cheeses available.

Casatica

Originally used to plough marshes until the Roman Empire fizzled and land sat abandoned, water buffalo played an important role in Italian history. Several centuries later, records show the first documentation of buffalo milk and its use in cheese-making. Buffalo thrive in the south, making northern Italy an unusual location for buffalo milk production, yet Alfio and Bruno Gritti established a large herd near Bergamo. Today, Northern Italy produces a buffalo milk cheese called Casatica. Different than Mozzarella, Casatica has a thin, white and soft-ripened rind with a creamy interior. The supple paste with small holes (known as “eyes” in the cheese world) delivers a silky texture and sweet milky flavor profile. This occurs because of buffalo milk’s 21-percent fat content, high calcium, protein, vitamins and mineral salt. Buffalo milk is also easy to digest and, like goat and sheep milk, can sometimes be tolerated by individuals who suffer from an inability to digest lactose. A big wine can overpower Casatica’s mild flavor, so keep it simple and enjoy with an Italian Pinot Grigio.

Burrata

Burrata is a fresh cow’s milk cheese similar to mozzarella in style. Both are pasta filata, or stretched cheeses. The stretching technique used to create Burrata allows the outside of the cheese to remain pliable while encasing a filling of wet curds and whey in the middle. The buttery aroma and sweet flavor help Burrata live up to its name, which translates to “buttered.” When you cut into burrata the center filling oozes out slowly, escaping the slightly firmer shell. This cheese shines with fresh produce like rich avocados, salty sea beans, and tangy tomatoes or earthy cured ham.

Nuvola di Pecora

An award-winning sheep’s milk cheese called Nuvola di Pecora stole my heart at first taste. Nuvola di Pecora (which means “sheep cloud”) has a thin, bloomy rind and firm-to-supple texture, depending on its age. The soft vegetal notes and milky sweetness of this cheese make Nuvola a dreamy treat. (You’re bound to start counting cheese instead of sheep.) Most sheep’s milk is aged to become firm and crystalline, making the thick custard-like texture of Nuvola di Pecora unique.

Accentuate its richness with a creamy Pinot Noir and imagine yourself in the Emilio-Romagna region of northern Italy where Casatica is born. Casatica, Burrata and Nuvola di Pecora deviate from the typical traditions of Italian cheese-making. However, the history, geography and culture of the region are obvious in the quality of these bellisimo cheeses.

From the Ashes: the use of ash in cheesemaking

9 Nov

Tradition! We use the important ritual of cooking and preparing food as a way to pass down a sense of our heritage. Although recipes evolve over the years, they often tell stories of the past and allow us to better understand a certain time period’s struggles and strengths.

The original use of ash in cheesemaking protected layers of curd that had to wait patiently for more milk before becoming cheese. The charcoal ash used in ancient times kept flies and other critters away while the animals made the next day’s milk. Over time, cheesemakers who raised goats realized the ash also neutralized the acidity of their curds and rounded out the flavors of their cheese.

Today, the visual impact of ash layers and rinds spur the tradition. Most cheesemakers now use dried vegetable ash instead of wood or charcoal ash; the odorless, tasteless ash provides the stunning color contrast they desire while offering a hospitable environment for the molds they want to grow.

Valencay

The French have mastered the use of ash in cheese making. One of the most stunning and delicious goat’s milk cheeses hails from the Loire Valley. This eye-catching cheese, called Valencay (vah-lehn-SAY), has various producers. A salted, charcoal ash rind blankets the moist paste. The center of this cheese exudes flavors of clean lemon and sweet hay. Legend tells of Valencay receiving its flat-topped pyramid shape when Napoleon was angered upon looking at it. Its original pointed pyramid shape reminded him of his Egyptian defeat, and off came the top of the cheese with an angry swipe of his sword.

Sofia

For a perfect indulgence, you must meet Sofia, a pretty little goat’s milk treat from Capriole Farms in Indiana. The use of vegetable ash in this recipe provides an alkaline balance to the acidity of the milk. The ash aids in showcasing the essence of the animal without the goaty flavors emerging too strongly. Sofia’s tangy personality pairs with so many fresh ingredients. Young, tart berries and crisp greens make Sofia’s list of favorite companions. As Sofia ages, honeycomb and nuts become her more mature suitors (who love residing next to her on a cheese plate due to the beauty of her ash-marbled paste).

Eclipse

Eclipse Paste

For a truly seasonal treat with surprising flavor, Eclipse from Goat’s Leap Dairy in California will simply make you smile. This dairy only uses the milk its animals produce while roaming the fields between April and October. Eclipse’s silky paste has a fine line of ash running horizontally through its center and a piece of Star Anise resting on top of its rind. Star Anise is the seedpod of a southwestern evergreen that tastes a lot like licorice. The Star Anise crown imparts some subtle flavor to the bright, citrusy goat milk. Make sure you have the right wine handy to pair with the dense and flaky texture of this barrel-shaped treat.

Most goat cheeses that incorporate ash pair well with grassy Sauvignon Blancs. The zing from the wine’s acidity refreshes and invigorates like the gigantic splash at the end of a long waterslide. Sauvignon Blancs pair with the citrus notes of this cheese style while cleansing your tongue of the rich, lactic residue good goat cheese leaves behind.

Now you can stop mistaking ash for bad black mold and bring a little tradition home with your next cheese selection.

Siesta Cheeses: Spanish favorites paired with meats

23 Oct

Jamon Serrano

No group knows a siesta better than the Spanish, whose talent for relaxing is topped only by their talent for producing fantastic cheeses, wines and hams. Mahón cheese, made on the tiny island of Menorca, has a history as colorful as its birthplace. Menorca has sustained many invasions throughout history, but its final British occupation in the 18th century provided the islanders with the Friesian cow, whose milk is now used to make Mahón. This cheese has peachy and grassy notes, as well as a touch of salt as if the sea breeze had gently kissed its rind. The sharp bite to the finish causes your mouth to pucker in unexpected delight. Islanders traditionally enjoy this cheese as an appetizer drizzled with olive oil and topped with rosemary fresh from the garden. I also add a slice of Jamon Serrano, the dry-cured ham’s robust gamey flavor accentuating the earthiness of the cheese while its honey sweetness balances Mahón’s saltiness. Remember to let both your cheese and ham come to room temperature so you can savor all their nuances while they transport you to the Balearic Islands.

Idiazabal

Idiazábal is a sheep’s milk cheese and hails from the mountains in Pais Vasco. When Spanish shepherds traveled with their animals to the high pastures in the summer, they stored their cheese in the rafters of huts. This caused the cheese to take on a smokey flavor from the nightly cooking fires. To duplicate this characteristic, Idiazábal now gets smoked over beechwood. Although made year round, the best production happens in May when the sheep graze on spring pastures. Idiazábal smells of soft smoke and fudge, has a sharp acidity and pairs perfectly with the finely marbled, hard-to-acquire Jamon Iberico, a delicacy that’s only produced in Spain and became available in the United States in 2008. Real Iberico has a smooth texture and rich savory taste due to the high consumption of acorns in the diet of the Pata Negra (black-footed pigs) used to make this ham. Do not let inferior products fool you; if you find Jamon Iberico in a specialty store or restaurant make sure the label reads Bellota before paying top dollar.

For the perfect sipper to accompany both of these Spanish selections, choose a cava rosé (rosado). This bubbly pink treat will help you relax with refreshing notes of berries and herbs that pair well with both Mahón and Idiazábal. The zippy acidity and occasional dryness of this bright wine sing with the saltiness of both lactic treats.

Don’t get stymied by the doldrums of everyday tasks. Pull yourself away to buy a bottle of cava rosé for your cheese and charcuterie selections and electrify your taste buds.

Käses (Cheeses of course)

4 Oct

Bavarian Blue on a sweet onion tart with confit tomatoes, arugula & aged balsamic

“O’zapft is!” – the cry used every year to open the festivities for Oktoberfest (as if anyone needs permission to begin consuming large quantities of beer in a giant tent). It means – “It’s tapped” and seems a fitting commencement for a kegger that has occurred for 201 years. A party this big must consist of more than just beer drinking, right? Of course! This celebration has it all: music, dancing, horse-drawn carriages, tight bodices, roller coasters, Ferris wheels, horse racing and shooting games (I still haven’t figured out how that works). The culinary delights run the gamut too consisting of roasted oxen, bratwursts over half a meter long, schnitzel, pork stews, whole slow cooked chickens and even braised pig’s knuckles. A beer festival with all these dishes must have cheese to be complete. So, in honor of this German holiday, I picked three käses, or cheeses, sure to appear at such an event.

Let’s start with the scariest and most well known, Limburger. Although its roots remain firmly grounded in Belgium, Limburger’s popularity created a need for production to increase during the mid 1800’s. Now a majority of this cow’s milk cheese is made in the Allgäu region of Germany. Washed in bacteria, the rind is sticky and brownish orange. If you want to know the aroma of what the floor of the beer tents will smell like once Oktoberfest is over, take a whiff of this baby. As with most washed rind cheeses, Limburger has a mild taste. That’s not to say it isn’t meaty and barny. This cheese is traditionally paired with potatoes, onions and dark pumpernickel bread. Sounds like the perfect breakfast for day two of Oktoberfest! Although Limburger pairs well with several styles of beer, it has an undeniable charisma with the acidic sourness of a Belgium Lambics.

Bavarian Blue

The next salute goes out to Bavarian Blu also produced in the Allgäu. Although considerably milder than Gorgonzola, reminiscent of the latter blended with Camembert. Bavarian Blu is made with rich cow’s milk and has a subtle, spicy finish. This cheese often appeals to non-blue fans because it is more about the cream than blue mold veins. I love to partner this one with fresh fruit and Riesling. They make an awesome threesome. In light of the holiday at hand, try it with an Apfelwein (Germany’s version of a hard apple cider). The cloudy fermented apple juice cuts through the unctuous paste of Bavarian Blu.

Now on to something obscure to us yet quite beloved in Germany. Altenburger Ziegenkäse is a soft and creamy cheese flecked with caraway seeds. This delightful goats’ and cows’ milk creation comes from Eastern Germany. As a protected cheese, Altenburger is only made at two Eastern dairies. Since reunification it has seen a comeback all over the region. During Oktoberfest you would most likely catch this delicacy drizzled with sweet mustard resting next to a stein of Kölsch. The honeyed tang of the mustard and notable hoppiness of this top-fermented beer accent the caraway seeds without hiding them. Try a Früh Kölsch from the Cologne region if you can find one.

Hope you are salivating due to the imagery of German cheeses and not German girls’ Oktoberfest costumes. Even more sincerely, I hope you are lucky enough to experience this holiday as it was intended. This Oktoberfest is sure to be the party of a lifetime – as long as you don’t forget the cheese.

Are You Ready For Some – Real Cheese?

24 Sep

Football season brings with it the promise of Kraft single cheeseburgers, cheese balls, cheese dips and even cheese cubes. All are wonderful accents to the first official parties of Florida’s transition into fall, and let’s face it; artisanal cheese doesn’t stand up to a hot room full of chanting beer drinkers like the processed stuff does! So, as your favorite college and pro teams take to the field, raise your drink to cheers your family and friends while you enjoy all the glory mass manufactured cheese has to offer. Now that you’ve got that out of your system, lets cut to the real cheese.

Pierce Pt. & Apricot Jam

Pierce Point from Cow Girl Creamery is a beautiful California cow’s milk cheese you can find on line at cowgirlcreamery.com. This seasonal cheese is only made for a short period each year. It is lovingly spritzed with a white wine and then rolled in dried coriander, fennel, juniper berry, bay leaf, lemongrass, lemon balm, red clover, marigold, chamomile and oat straw. The result is a decadent, semi-firm cheese that is a real treat. Pierce Point’s creamy and sweet characteristics make it the perfect cheese to pair with a tart apricot jam. This unique accompaniment is a recipe of dried apricots, honey and cinnamon. The crisp, fruity notes of the apricot enhance the already complex Pierce Point.

For another domestic choice, occasionally available at Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits, St. George is a unique option. The Matos family in California makes this cow’s milk cheese. The intense, cheddary depth provides a rich full-flavored treat. As this Portuguese style cheese coats your tongue, dive into a late summer corn, basil and olive oil salad. Just mix to taste. The combination is refreshing, sweet and sexy!

An imported selection perfect for this season is Garrotxa (gar-ROACH-uh), a goat’s milk cheese from Catalonia, Spain. This firm, aged cheese has a velvety paste with a mild tang. The nuances of nuts, fresh flowers and sweet grass will arouse your palate and remind you of the days of summer’s past. Cherry Preserves from Harvest Song is a shimmering match to this gem. The simple mixture of tangy sweet-and-sour cherries creates a flawless ode to Garrotxa. Just stop by Publix Greenwise Market and pick up the pair. If Garrotxa isn’t available, ask their expert to pick an aged goat’s milk that they like.

Sottocenere, Almonds & Truffles

Italy has a list of cheeses as long as its selection of wines. That being said, if you love truffles you must indulge in a wedge of Sottocenere (SO-toh-CHEH-nay-ray).  You can find this raw cow’s milk cheese at Whole Foods Market. Literally translating to “under the ashes” the name stems from the tradition of preserving cheese in ash. The rind of Sottocenere is an aromatic coating of nutmeg, clove, coriander, cinnamon, licorice and even fennel. The most exciting element of this cheese is the flavor that comes from the bits of white and black truffles in the paste. Grab a bottle of sparkling wine like Prosecco and devour this one without any accompaniments. It’s that amazing!

Clearly, all cheese has a time and place. Enjoy your football celebrations and the appropriate cheeses that go along with it. Remember to stop by your closest artisanal cheese store when your palate desires the upgrade that is sure to follow!

Wet your thistle with “true” vegetarian cheeses (plus a golden raisin & olive chutney)

20 Sep
If you are a vegetarian and include cheese as a part of your daily diet, you should know that most cheese contains animal rennet. Milk has to be set in order to turn into cheese. Enzymes extracted from the stomach of herd animals provide the most common coagulants.

by Dean Hurst

The story of the origin of cheese dates back to some time before recorded history when a random wanderer traveled with a canteen made from the stomach of a calf filled with milk. As this ancient gypsy crossed the miles and his food source reacted to the enzymes in his traveling pouch, the result was curds and whey. The evolution of the contents of that canteen became the cheese we enjoy today, and in our current market, the demand for cheeses not coagulated with animal rennet grows.

Although several other vegetarian and microbial sources provide enzymes that can set milk, the ancient practice of using cardoon thistle stamens has become a favorite. When talking about thistle rennet cheese, Torta La Serena from Extremadura Spain holds my heart. This very creamy cheese gets cooked at a low temperature with an infusion of dried cardoon rennet. The final wheel of cheese has an unctuous paste with a fresh, woody flavor. Torta La Serena is traditionally served swaddled in cheesecloth with the top cut off and its pudding-like texture exposed. Letting the entire wheel come to room temperature creates the perfect consistency for scooping it up like slightly melted ice cream. Enjoy Torta La Serena with a vinegar-based golden raisin relish like the easy recipe at right. The sharp flavor of the accompaniment cuts through the whipped texture of the floral, sheepy cheese. The vegetal nuances from the thistle can make pairing challenging, but if you enjoy sherries then try an oloroso. Oloroso sherry has a rich and nutty flavor without an overpowering sweetness. The earthy Torta La Serena cheese, tangy fruit relish and sweet sherry create the perfect trifecta.

Berkswell by Dean Hurst

Berkswell Rind by Dean Hurst

Derived from a different plant source and made near an English village that shares its name, the treasured sheep’s milk cheese Berkswell is also vegetarian-friendly. Berkswell’s flavor notes leave warm whiskey and roasted nuts on the palate. This cheese’s paste has a compact and crumbly texture due to the basket mold used to press it. The grey stone-colored rind holds the impressions of the mold in woven artistry. I can smell sweet clover when I cut into a wheel of Berkswell. It transports me to an English farm nestled on a grassy hillside in the 16th century. A pile of walnuts drizzled with maple syrup and a bottle of Pinot Noir will perfectly complement a chunk of this rustic cheese.

These are just two examples of the many cheeses you can enjoy on a vegetarian diet. Just get in the habit of checking labels to determine if the cheeses you purchase contain animal ingredients. Cheese makers denote rennet types in many different ways, as the FDA does not yet have a standard. In addition to labels that read “vegetable rennet,” look for “microbial.” This process sets cheese by the fermentation of a fungus or bacteria. Some vegetarian labels will read “non-animal,” “rennetless” or “vegetarian/microbial coagulants.” Regardless of the verbiage, all are perfect for your meatless munchies!

Golden Raisin & Olive Chutney

Golden Raisin Arbequina Olive Relish
By Chef Chad Johnson, SideBern’s

Ingredients:

1 red bell pepper, diced small
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
3/4 cup cider vinegar
2 cups golden raisins
1 cup chopped Arbequina olives (the small, brown ones)

Directions:

1. Saute garlic, shallot, and red pepper in olive oil on medium heat until tender.
2. Add the remaining ingredients, except the olives, and simmer over medium heat until liquid is absorbed by the raisins
3. Remove from the heat and fold in the chopped olives and serve.

The Best Melters for Summer Grilling: Don’t Ruin Your Burger with the Wrong Cheese

20 Jul

Can you feel the heat? It is time to fire up that grill for some serious summer burgers! The art of a perfect hamburger is up for much debate. Whether your secret hides in the bun, in the seasoning of the beef, in the temperature of your grill or in your special sauce; everyone has their own “best” burger recipe. Whatever you do – do not get caught up in the juice dripping through your grate and forget about the importance of choosing the right cheese. Some cheeses just melt better than others, which will make your backyard grill showdown the perfect place to showcase these stunning ozzers.

#1 Beginner Melter: Port-Salut

For a party-friendly, memorable melter use the easy-to-find Port-Salut. Port- Salut has such a mild and creamy flavor you can sneak it on your kid’s burgers while still feeling like a gourmet chef. This luscious melter’s washed-rind throws it in the category of the Trappist monk style, however it never gets funky like most washed-rinds, making it excellent for beginners. The tang and acidity of Port-Salut’s paste will perfectly sink deep into the crevices of your already smoking summer burgers. Keep this one simple with your traditional burger accompaniments, but if you are feeling a little frisky, then add thinly sliced grilled apple for a crunchy contrast. For a great beer pairing open a sweet Chimay White (also made by Trappist monks) to sinfully wash down your burger.

#2 Intermediate Melter: Ossau-Iraty

For an ossau-erotic cheese try this French sheep’s milk! A magnificent melter, Ossau-Iraty smells of toasted hazelnuts with a sweet, yeasty and milky flavor. Eating Ossau-Iraty reminds me of biting into a buttered and toasted sourdough bun. Heated, this cheese bridges stretchy strings of melted treats between everything it touches. To make an especially impressive burger with Ossau-Iraty, add a smear of cherry mostarda to a slightly charred bun. That’s right, I said put cherries on your burger and I have included a recipe below to make sure you give it a try. The salty meat, sharp cheese, smokey bread, tangy mustard and sweet cherries will rock your taste buds! Choose a malty nut brown ale to go with this burger. I highly recommend Downtown Brown by Lost Coast Brewery.

#3 Advanced Melter: Stilton

Courtesy of Dean Hurst

Blue cheese is not for everyone, and Stilton – well, this cheese is an acquired taste. It takes a strong, sophisticated (or maybe just really hungry) mouth to enjoy the aggressive spiciness this English cheese dishes out. That only makes me love it more. If you want to beef up your summer burgers make them black and blue with this classic melter and watch the Stilton turn into puddles of sharp, nutty cream on your hamburgers. To really make things interesting, reduce one cup of port on the stovetop for every two pounds of beef you plan on using and mix it into your patties before you throw them on the grill. The old world combination of Stilton and Port will meet the classic American grilled burger in a shower of fireworks on your tongue. To douse the flames, chug a barleywine like Anchor Steam’s Old Foghorn. This style of beer is almost like Port with bubbles. Now that should keep the neighbors talking!

Cherry Mostarda Recipe

By Kira Jefferson

- 3&1/2 Cups Sugar

- 3/4 Bottle Of Red Wine (Preferably Zinfandel)

- 1/4 Cup Black Pepper

- 2 Quarts Pitted Red Cherries

- 1&1/2 Cups Stone Ground Mustard

 

Mostarda Procedure

- Combine sugar, wine, mustard and pepper in a saucepan

- When mixture comes to a boil, lower heat and add cherries

- Simmer, stirring occasionally until cherries are soft and breaking apart

- Cool to room temp and spread on your bun before serving

Savor the Flavor of Cheese!

5 May

Juniper Berries Courtesy of Wikimedia

Flavored cheeses have not always had the best reputation, but they are covering new ground in a powerful way. Adding gourmet ingredients to sound, quality milk can lead to a masterful product. Thoughtfully considering the milk’s characteristics and origin is another crucial element to incorporating culinary zing into a cheese’s paste.

The Italian Rosso family has done all of the above with their creation of Juni. This raw cow’s milk cheese has local juniper berries added to the curd. Juniper berries are the key botanical to the flavor profile of gin and grow wild in the Piedmont region. It makes sense to add the mountain’s natural bounty to the milk of the cows that roam the terrain. After a couple of months of aging, the result is a well-balanced, tangy cheese that goes down like a silky gin martini. Enjoy this treat with a bottle of Villa Russiz Sauvignon Blanc Collio 2008 from Friuli, Italy. This wine enhances the creaminess of the already lovely Juni and complements the juniper with a touch of soft peach.

Kicking it up a serious notch, another unique flavored cheese is the Wasabi Disk from Westfield Farm in Massachusetts. Cheesemaker Bob Stetson masterfully adds real wasabi (Japanese horseradish, not the green stuff) and a touch of chive to the paste of fresh, velvety goat’s milk. The cool earthiness of the base of the cheese comforts your taste buds as they water from the tingle of the wasabi kick. The unique combination blends handsomely in your mouth and leaves you refreshed with an exciting culinary experience. Substitute a smear of Wasabi Disk instead of your regular old cocktail sauce the next time you serve shrimp cocktail and amaze your friends with your ingenuity. Oh, and don’t forget the sake. Make sure you pick out a cold sake like Rihaku ‘Wandering Poet’ to really enjoy this cheese.

Fenugreek Seeds via Wikimedia

Perhaps you find sweet more alluring than savory when it comes to flavored cheeses? Then crack into a wheel of Fenacho from Tumalo Farms in central Oregon. You may remember this is one of my favorites from an earlier post. This semi-hard goat’s milk cheese has a paste loaded with fenugreek clover seeds. These seeds are a spice in curry that balances the heat with a bit of sweetness (they are also used as a natural supplement to encourage lactation — for those of you who need a little help with that). Fenacho is exotic and nutty with hints of butterscotch on the finish. Eating this cheese reminds me of eating a stack of pancakes drenched in maple syrup and topped with homemade whipped-cream. Much the way honeycomb accentuates fresh goat cheese, the sweet character of the fenugreek seeds amplify the earthy charm of Tumalo Farm’s aged goat’s milk. You must try Fenacho while sipping a bit of Zaya Rum (yes, you can sip rum when it is made well). This Caribbean spirit is five times distilled, aged for 10 years in bourbon barrels and has a molasses flavor profile. With a little orange peel, cherry, banana, vanilla, coconut and cocoa, Zaya is the perfect counterpart to Fenacho. Seriously, who wouldn’t want all those toppings with their pancakes?

Milk has become a canvas for cheesemakers to create and combine flavors as chefs do. Whether you prefer your cheese incorporated with a savory seed, hoppy beer, sprightly citrus, decadent truffles or even briny seaweed, the possibilities of combinations are endless. Trust the flavor profiles that work with the terroir and your own pairing experiences to expose your palate to a new level of cheesiness.

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